Saturday November 28, 2009
We're having a rather extraordinary day here in northern Tuscany. It's summer all over again--after a night of pounding rain.
It's market day in our market town, Aulla. We puttered around a bit in the sun, checking out the falling value of houses before heading over to the food section of the market and buying a roast chicken (€6) and that big white bag of potato croquettes you see on the table in the picture, purchased from a guy with a trailer full of flaming rotisseries parked on a side street next to the candy man. Fun to watch him fork a pollo and flip it into a bag. A showman; a very efficient one; chickens flew from the truck as if they had wings (Oh, wait, scratch that...)
By the time we got home, it was warm enough to strip down to tee shirt and jeans and set up the table on our terrace. That's the view out our kitchen door.
While we were tearing into our chicken, neighbor Enrico came over to harvest lettuce from his garden. There's a huge plot of it still unfrozen. Upon seeing us eating outside, he exclaimed that the world and its weather had gone "pazzo" or crazy, before inviting us to dig into the lettuce any time we wanted. The off-season weather can be unbelievable some times.
Find out more about the Lunigiana, or see a map of Tuscany.
Friday November 27, 2009
It's just gotten over a cold rain here in the Lunigiana. My back aches. You know what I'd really like right now? A soak in a hot mineral bath of the kind that the old folks here in Tuscany flock to for what ails 'em.
I just visited a town known for its curative waters and steaming caves called "grotta" (perhaps "hot" works here in place of steaming; the three caves are named Paradise, Purgatory and Hell). They were discovered when workmen were puttering around below the old villa with picks.
There's also the older town above, called Monsummano Alto, with castle remains, a bed and breakfast, a restaurant with panoramic views of the valley (once a swamp), and an 11th century church with a pine tree growing from its facade.
You can't beat that, can you? Read our Monsummano Terme Guide to find out where to go, where to stay, and where to eat.
Of course, if I was made of money I might try a Vinotherapy Spa. I'm still stuck in the old mold; I drink my wine from a glass.
You might also wish to find out about the best spas in Germany from our Spas Guide. Or if you like a more natural environment, there's always a soak in the Blue Lagoon.
Wednesday November 25, 2009

Albert Camus, who usually shunned riding in cars, died in a 1960 car crash with a train ticket in his pocket. This picture shows his burial site in the cemetery of Lourmarin.
The winner of the 1957 Nobel prize for literature is making headlines nearly 50 years after his death. French President Nicolas Sarkozy wants his remains moved to the Pantheon in Paris, a traditional resting place for French heroes. Many believe this to be a political ploy. Camus' son, Jean Camus, is opposed to the idea.
Read more of the Albert Camus controversy:
Reburying Albert Camus: A Political Ploy by Sarkozy?
Nicolas Sarkozy rebuffed in plan to move Albert Camus
Calls to drop the idea of re-interring Camus
Picture of the grave of Albert Camus in Lourmarin in the Luberon of Provence, France © 2009 by James Martin, licensed to About.com
Tuesday November 24, 2009
Some say the Jewish catacombs under the Villa Torlonia just outside the historic center of Rome are the oldest in the Eternal City. We recently had a chance to visit them and were surprised at the state of preservation of the frescos. (The burial chambers themselves were not so fortunate, having been looted long ago.) Our guide, Rome archaeologist Simona Morretta, hoped the catacombs will be open to the public by 2010--or as soon as safety issues are worked out. For now, you'll have to be content with some pictures your intrepid scribe has taken of our excursion:
Pictures of the Jewish Catacombs under Villa Torlonia in Rome, Italy.
(Shown in the picture is guide Alejandro Capriles, who gives an excellent and highly recommended tour of the gardens and villa of the Villa Torlonia. Photo © 2009 by James Martin, licensed to About.com)