We've just completed a 4 day trip through some if Italy's northern territories, Barolo and the Langhe in Piemonte and Como in Lombardi. The weather late in November wasn't the best. In fact, it was difficult to get pictures. There was fog every day, sometimes dense. The famous vineyards lay dormant, the few remaining leaves displaying an abundance of color--if you could see it through the fog. I guess there's a reason the "big grape" here is called Nebbiolo. "Nebbia" means fog.
But, with the seasons comes change, felt not only through nature's color and the chill in the air, but in expectations, food, and seasonal traditions as well. Persimmons hung heavy on the trees, as you see up there on the left. That's the castle of Barolo behind. The onset of a winter chill was a good time to showcase one of the region's winter food specialties, the big Bollito Misto, a dish of boiled meats (with assorted dipping sauces) that warm you through and through. Our waitress at Osteria La Cantinella described their Bollito Misto as containing hens, beef, pork, and "everything of the veal that can be boiled." She then started a pantomime of veal parts, carefully pointing out the analogous calf part on her own body. It was a good Italian anatomy lesson. You should have been there.
I'm sure I yammer on too much about the off-season in Europe. Granted, the weather wasn't the best, but the uncrowded restaurants (except at Como on Saturday night, where many restaurants were fully reserved), the nearly empty roads, the discounted apartment we rented, and the laid-back attitude made it all worthwhile. Below are some highlights and surprises.
Most Surprising City: Mondovi in Piemonte. I had seen Mondovi on the map and wondered about it. Very interesting city. Mondovi-Piazza is the part above, and you reach it by funicular for €1 round trip. Baroque churches, friendly cafes, fine medieval architecture, a belvedere, or view spot in a park with exhibits on timekeeping through the ages in the shadow of a huge belltower with enormous clock were ours for the gawking. There were hot air balloons in the sky overhead. You could almost see them.
Surprising sight: Fruit and vegetable stands in the streets of Como on a brisk, wintry evening.
Most disappointing road: The Langhe and Roero Romantic Road. Taking a page from the German Tourism Playbook, Italians define a "romantic" route with maps that will make you go stark, raving mad in a second. It would be better to take the the Vespa tour of the road. Maybe the organizers know where they're going.
Odd thing--for an American: Tasting the famous Barbaresco wines in a church: Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco.
Notable: The Holy Shroud will be on display in the Cathedral of Torino starting on 10 April to 23 May, 2010, for the first time since 2002.