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James Martin

Christmas in Northern Tuscany

By , About.com GuideDecember 1, 2009

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We've just returned from shopping. It's getting harder to move in the stores; the Christmas crunch has arrived. Yes, even in a remote part of Italy called la Lunigiana Christmas seems to come earlier and earlier every year.

I wanted to continue yesterday's theme on how Christmas is celebrated and tell you of some celebrations that are just a little different than what you might see in the states.

First off, back in the old days, say two or three years ago, the Christmas season in Italy started on the day of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, or December 8, which is a public holiday in Italy. Associated with this holiday are the openings of Christmas markets and other events.

Today, Christmas decorations have already appeared and a huge tree sits in the main piazza of Sarzana.

But let me cut to the good stuff I hope to experience this year. First off is the presepe vivente or living presepe. Here townspeople create a living nativity scene, carrying out the crafts and chores as they would have a couple thousand years ago. Around here, the most famous is the one held in the caves at Equi Terme, which starts on Christmas Eve. (Find out more about the spa town and caves of Equi Terme.)

The second "different" festival is the traditional marine Christmas celebration called Natale Subacqueo, or "underwater Christmas". For this we'd go to the little town of Tellaro on the Gulf of Poets near Lerici to see a statue of the baby Jesus emerge from the sea (with the help of divers) against a backdrop of fireworks. A gospel chorus will provide music. It's held on the same days as the Equi Terme presepe vivente, December 24-27th.

We'll be documenting these public celebrations, plus a Christmas feast with our Italian neighbors. Follow us on Twitter, sign up for our free newsletter, or stay tuned to this blog to see how it goes.

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