| Burgundy Uncorked: Beaune and the Burgundy Wine Region |
| Part 2: Great Wine and Food and interesting attractions make this a good base from which to explore France's Burgundy region. |
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It is believed that the area around Beaune has produced wine since 300 AD. The Catholic church took over winemaking in the Middle Ages, finding that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay flurished in the varied microclimates of Burgundy. But the tide has turned and today you'll find wineries and hotels in restored monasteries.
The town of Beaune makes a fine hub from which to explore the burgundy region. The town is accessable from the A6 motorway from Paris to the north, or from Lyon to the south. Beaune is 40 km south of the Dijon airport.
Beaune Attractions
- Hospice de Beaune - a system of charitable hospitals, the first called the Hôtel-Dieu, was born on 4 August 1443 after the Hundred Years War was ended. While "écorcheurs" still pillaged the countryside, most of the people of Beaune were poor. Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of the Duke of Burgundy Philippe le Bon, and his wife Guigone de Salins reacted by deciding to create a hospital for the poor. You can see this history in the building details--on the outside the Hôtel-Dieu is decidedly plain, reflecting its somber mission and making the complex less attractive to thieves. But once inside, the colorful tile roof reflect the wealth of the inordinantly generous ruling class. The Hôtel-Dieu is now a museum that makes a fascinating visit. [pictures below]
- Basilique Notre Dame Church
- Musee de la Vigne et du Vin (Burgundy Wine Museum) -Housed in a former residence of the Dukes of Burgundy, you can see the winemaking tools and machines as well as get an idea of the history of the region. Open Daily 9:30am - 6pm, closed Tuesdays (Dec 1st to Mar31st) Dec 25th and Jan1st.
- Burgundy Tasting Cellers - many in the downtown area.
Wine Tasting Tip
Simon Firth recommends avoiding the pressure to buy expensive bottles of wine by paying for tasting at a merchant who represents several wineries. He recommends Le Marché aux Vins in the town of Beaune. The wines of Burgundy do not come cheap.
Restaurants and Cuisine
Restaurants in Beaune run from the cheap (mussels and frites) to expensive gourmet. For those who like innovative cuisine I highly recommend L´Ecusson, just outside of town. The restaurant's website is unreachable at the time of writing, so I'm not sure if they're still in operation.
Markets
Beaune's open-air market day is Saturday. The area around the market is good for an inexpensive meal.
Barging the Burgundy Canal
Another interesting way to visit this region is to rent a barge on "Le Canal de Bourgogne" or the Burgundy Canal. The canal connects the Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean via the rivers Yonne and Seine to the river Saône and Rhone. The construction began in 1727 and was completed in 1832.
Walking the Vineyards of Burgundy
I've done several of the walks described in Fodor's excellent Short Escapes in France (compare prices). If you like leisurely excursions into the French countryside, I recommend trying to procure a copy (published in 1996, it's now in short supply).
Information on wine, wine tasting, food and restaurant recommendations, canal trips and barge rental, bike tours and other Burgundy attractions is available on our Burgundy Links page.
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