| Provence Travel Map and Resources | |
| Provence, like Tuscany, is one of France's best bets for seeing rural life lived to the fullest. | |
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The Departments of Provence
Provence is divided into six Departments: Bouches du Rhone, Var, Alpes Maritimes, Vaucluse, Alpes de Haute Provence, and Hautes Alpes. The departments to the west--Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhone--are bordered on the west by the Rhône river. These two departments are generally what tourists think of when they think of Provence.
To further muddy the waters, Peter Mayle's books refer to Provence, but usually are written about just a part of it, the Luberon, which is mostly in the Vaucluse. The Luberon has as its backbone a mountain range that forms a sort of climate wall, a boundary between the warm and dry Mediterranean climate of the south and the cooler alpine influence on the north.
Still many people consider the Luberon to be the heart of the "real" Provence, and I would agree.
Expanding a bit, the Provence I find most appealing is found in the triangle between Avignon, Arles, and Salon de Provence. Here you can drive your car to practically any small town and find a charming and inexpensive hotel. Here are the places I find compelling:
- Arles - First inhabited by the Greeks, but made the most of by the Romans, who left a theater and amphitheater for tourists to gawk at. Arles used to be a thriving port before it all silted up to become the marshy Camarge. Van Gogh chopped off his ear here--and produced some of his best work as well. The people didn't like him much at the time, but they do now, of course.
- Avignon - a spectacular city with the must-visit Palais des Papes (Palace of Popes) as well as other sites and a compelling old town. Parking outside the gates, on the other side of the Rhone, isn't as difficult as you might think.
- St. Remy de Provence - Founded by the Romans as Glanum, there is lots to see here, Roman or no. Outside the town is the Ancien Monastère de St- Paul-de-Mausole, the 12th century monastery that was converted to the psychiatric hospital where Van Gogh was admitted and where he produced some of his most famous paintings--like Starry Night. There is a walk you can take where he produced some of his paintings, but the trail is becoming overgrown. Still worth a look though. Nostrademus was born in St. Remy as well.
- les Baux - Bauxite was discovered here in 1821, and Les Baux seems to be built out of the quarries. Now it's a craftsman's hangout, and you can taste wine in one of the caves.
Notes: It is an easy 5 mile walk between St. Remy and les Baux. The Pont du Gard is between Orange and Nimes just off the A9, and is easily visited if you have a car. (Pont du Gard pictures)
Provence Resources: Pictures
Provence Picture Gallery - Typical Provence scenes--the things that immediately say "Provence" to me, from powder blue shutters with just a bit of peeling paint to tree lined streets alive with the hum of cicadas.
Les Baux - 2 pictures of the Bauxite town.
Hotel Les Magnanarelles in Maussane les Alpilles, south of St. Remy. A reasonable value, although the rooms seem less charming than some hotels in the area--get a room by the pool to stay away from street noise. A double room was about 60 Euros. The area is one of the best for French olive oil, and is central to the places discussed on this page. (More on Maussane les Alpilles, Hotel Les Magnanarelles)
Provence Resources: Links
Provence Links from France for Visitors
Provence Books
Top 5 Books on Provence by Peter Mayle
Traveler's Tales Provence (review from Debra Weber, guide to French Cuisine)
Provence: Offsite Resources
Luberon Cultural Centers and Museums
Luberon Activities (including market days)
Other Relevant Maps
France Map and Travel Resources
Interactive Map of Luberon Park
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