The first time I entered Spain from France--after a long pause to let the workers change the wheels to fit Spain's narrower gauge tracks--I felt the throbbing beat of the Spanish guitar as the slow train clacked through verdant jungles of vegetation broken up by undulating ribbons of stacked-stone walls. No other music is so intertwined with the landscape and soul of its homeland like Spanish music, and Flamenco is the art at its core.
The Origins of Flamenco
Where did Flamenco come from? Christine Temin, in Seeking out Spain's furtive art and soul, surmises that, "it is a product of several cultures, and that Arabs and Jews hiding in the mountains to escape forced conversion to Roman Catholicism contributed significantly to its music.
Flamenco Walking Tour
Temin recommends the flamenco aficionados take the walking tour by Carmen, "the quintessential spitfire Sevillana Gypsy" when visiting Seville. The Independent has a great article on the tour as well: Showtime in Carmen's old stamping ground. Alas, it appears this tour is no longer operating, but aficionados of Carmen might visit Seville's Antigua Fábrica de Tabacos on Calle San Fernando, the city's old tobacco factory which was the setting for Bizet's Carmen. It's now part of Seville University, and is only open to the public during daylight hours.
Seeing Flamenco in Spain
Flamenco is music of the night. Late night. Many of the more authentic versions don't get really going until midnight.
The popularity of Flamenco has elevated the music out of sweaty, smoky bars into theaters and restaurants. There are a few problems with this, of course. One is that the tourist is always wondering about the authenticity of the performances, and indeed, most of the tablaos or clubs serve up a diluted version of the passionate music. Temin (and many others) recommends La Carbonaria, an old coal warehouse in the heart of Seville's old city. (Calle Levies, 18, Seville)
More Information on Flamenco
Flamenco Dancing in Spain - "Though a lot of people visiting Spain want to see 'flamenco dancing', flamenco is actually not a dance at all. Flamenco is a musical form that sometimes has dancing in it."
Flamenco Museum in Seville - "Housed in a restored 18th-century building, minutes from the Cathedral of Seville, the museum's entrance opens into an Andalucían patio, which showcases its monthly flamenco shows and private events."
Flamenco World - General information on Flamenco
Spanish Hot Spots for Flamenco
VirtualTourist -Sevilla - Flamenco - Get other traveler's recommendations on seeing Flamenco in Seville
