The Pyrenees mountains form the border between France and Spain. They are not just a geographical barrier, but a divide of culture, climate, flora and fauna and way of life between two very different countries. The Pyrenees are one of the last wilderness areas of Europe and can only really be appreciated on foot. Using the extensive network of paths and remote mountain refuges, walkers can quickly find themselves miles from civilisation and surrounded by the spectacular beauty of the mountains. Guided walking holidays in the French Pyrenees are available through Mountainbug Activity Holidays.
A two day trip in the Néouvielle Nature Reserve, overnighting at one of the original Pyrenean refuges, the Refuge Packe
Map: Carte de Randonnées Pyrénées 4 1:50000 Bigorre (parc national de pyrenees)
Day 1 Starting from: The Lienz Plateau (above Barèges village) 1520m
Walk South on a rough track, following the bottom of the Vallée de la Glère and passing the Camp Rollot. These cabins were originally a resistance camp during the second world war and the German occupation of France, where local people sheltered British airmen before smuggling them across the border into Spain. Continue up the valley until the road begins to climb steeply. The wide zigzags can be shortcut on foot – follow cairns.
Lakes circuit
At the top of the zig zag path, the valley opens out again at the Lac de la Glère 2103m, overlooked by the imposing Refuge de la Glère – a manned refuge and a good base for local walking, climbing and ski touring in the Néouvielle Nature Reserve. Follow a cairned route round the left hand side of the lake, scrambling over enormous, smooth granite boulders then climb steeply to the Lac de Mounicot. This lake feels totally wild and secluded – surrounded by towering snow-capped peaks and meadows strewn with flowers. A lovely spot for a picnic and a cooling dip.
Continue climbing, heading Southeast around the right hand side of the lake, until you reach the Lac de la Mourèle. This lake is dark blue and very deep – with white slabs of ice enduring well into the mid Summer. Skirt right around the edge of the lake and bear West to meet the main path. The landscape is barren and wild – with sculpted boulders, stranded lakes and tiny stunted pine trees. Follow the main path NW to a junction, then South on the Eastern side of the Vallée de Bolou. The valley bottom climbs gently, past an abandoned mine and then crossing to the West side of the valley. The Packe refuge is visible as a tiny dot on the distant col. Climb steeply to the Col de Rabiet, at 2509m, where the refuge Packe perches precariously – overlooking the Pyrenees National Park, the Lac de Rabiet and in the far distance the hazy 3000m peaks of the Spanish frontier behind the Cirque de Gavarnie. The Refuge Packe is one of the original Pyrenean refuges - built of stone with a vaulted roof to withstand the weight of snow. Inside there is a small sitting area and sleeping platforms. Descend to the Lac du Pourtet for water, then cook up a bowl of hot soup and nibble the local saucisson sec as the sun sets and casts long shadows off every peak and ridge.
Continue to Page Two for Day Two of "A two day trip in the Néouvielle Nature Reserve of the Pyrenees"
