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L'Europeo Di Mattozzi - Naples Restaurant Review

This Restaurant is What Naples is All About

About.com Rating 4.5 Star Rating


L'Europeo Di Mattozzi, naples restaurant review

Preparing fish at L'Europeo Di Mattozzi

James Martin
L'Europeo Di Mattozzi is a pizzaria and resturant in the heart of Naples, offering some fine cucina Napoletana in an informal and fun setting. It's my kinda joint; the plates are as lively and colorful as the people of Naples.

Many come here for the pizza, which Ed Levine describes thusly: "The crust was light, ethereal and cloudlike. The San Marzano tomatoes were sweet, and the melted mozzarella di bufala was creamy and slightly tart."

For starters...

Yes, L'Europeo's pizza was very good. Not as soggy as the vaunted da Michele version, a Naples pizzeria that seems to have lost its way lately. We had pizza for our antipasto, as is a custom in these parts.

Then came a rush of small plates typical of the territory, including mozzarella and seafood dishes like a meltingly tender plate of baby octopus drizzled with olive oil.

In Naples, a plate of paccheri--a large, round pasta that looks like collapsed garden hose tossed with some kind of seafood sauce--seemed to be the primo piatto of the moment. We'd been served this in pretty much every restaurant we'd visited in the 5 days we were in the area. L'Europeo's was by far the most colorful, if not most delicious of the bunch. And hey, it even looked like a million bucks on the plate. This is Naples: a riot of sunny color and a daunting mix of things on your plate to figure out.

Yes, there was wine...

paccheri picture, L'Europeo Di Mattozzi, naples restaurant review

Paccheri with seafood from L'Europeo Di Mattozzi

James Martin
The wine that came to the table was red, chilled and ever so slightly carbonated. I am usually not attracted to this type of wine at all, but it grew on my after a bit. It was perfect with the pizza, and not bad at all with the paccheri. There was also white wine and more serious reds once you get away from the house offerings.

Sure, this is seafood territory, but there was also some serious meat on the menu. We were supposed to have the stinko di maiale, roast pork leg, but we were too stuffed with seafood to carry on.

Maybe next time. In fact, I long for a next time.

L'Europeo di Mattozzi Stats

L'Europeo di Mattozzi
Via Campodisola 4/6/8
Tel./Fax +39-081-552-1323
Lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner, Thursday through Saturday. Closed all day Sunday, from August 15-31, and Saturdays in July.

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