But food and wine lovers would be remiss to cross Piemonte off their "to visit" list. Home to 45 different D.O.C. wines, Piemonte is a wine lover's paradise, producing Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbara and Dolcetto, as well as celebration favorite Asti Spumanti.
Piemonte's Grapes and Herbs
The hilly region bordering France and Switzerland is ideal for dry farming most grapes, which are deep-rooted enough to withstand periods of dry weather. This attention to the environment and naturally produced items extends to food as well; Piemonte has said "no" to genetically modified organisms. But the delicacies the Piemontese say "yes" to are even more important: the white truffle of Alba, an enormous array of artisanal cheeses and cured meats as well as a vast assortment of herb products are all part of the Piemonte table."Piemonte is tops in the world for its herb products," according to chef Marina Ramasso, who uses them liberally in her traditional cuisine at Osteria del Paluch, not far from the Superga temple overlooking Torino (Via Superga 44 in Baddissero Torinese Tel. 011/940.87.50 ) Her kitchen is open onto a view of the patio and garden, and includes a wood fired stove and oven in addition to the modern gas stove. This link to the past isn't just for show--Ms. Ramasso collects cookbooks and diaries from the 1800s and allows them to guide her traditional cuisine.
Piemonte - Its Cuisine isn't Stuck in Traditional Mode
But the food of the Piemonte isn't only about holding close to tradition. Davide Scabin at Combal.Zero is considered a food designer, reverse engineering traditional food to surprise the senses and create an atmosphere of fun unusual in a starred Michelin restaurant. Liquid pizza with beer? Cybereggs? A clear plastic bag called the Harry Potter, containing four regional specialties packaged like brightly wrapped candies; you choose by color the order of consumption? Yes, they're all part of Sabin's 16 course Creative Menu. Leave your preconceptions about good food and great restaurants at the door--Combal.Zero is about having fun and thinking differently about what you stick in your mouth--and how. (Combal.Zero (review), Piazza Fafalda di Savoia - Rivoli. Tel. 001.95.65.222, closed Monday and Tuesday)
Alba's White Truffles - Hunt Them Yourself!
And then there's Alba's white truffle, considered the best in the world. You'll find them available from September-January. Other seasons produce the Winter Black Truffle and Summer Black Truffle, the winter being the tastiest.Did you know you can hunt truffles yourself? Head on out to "La Casa del Trifulau (House of the Truffle Hunters) in tiny Costigliole d'Asti and they'll explain truffle hunting to you, serve you a "merenda" (a snack taken between lunch and dinner) consisting of cheese drizzled in olive oil and showered with slivers of the truffle of the season, as well as some sliced sausages and bread--then you'll head out with the dogs Diana and Berta to hunt your own. It's really easy, the dogs do all the work. (La Casa del Trifulau at Frazione Burio 1 in Costigliole d'Asti. Tel. 347 2991832)
When to Visit the Piemonte
May is a wonderful time for wildflowers, spring showers, and the budding of Piemontes fresh herbs. But then again, just about any time is a good time to visit Piemonte.
