Tried other tourist-clogged Rome neighborhoods? Ready for something a bit different? Testaccio is a Rome Neighborhod anchored by the old stockyards and a hill made of Roman amphora fragments discarded from ships on the nearby Tiber.
Foodies like Testaccio because of the traditions surrounding the Roman cuisine of the stockyard workers. This means offal will be served in local restaurants, as workers were given these pieces at the end of the day--and they (or most likely their wives and mothers) learned to cook them into tasty meals.
But it's not all innards in Testaccio. The foodie shrine called Gastronomia Volpetti is here, and the covered market is as lively as it can get, even without the throngs of tourists that flock to better-known markets in Rome. La Città dell'Altra Economia will educate you in fair trade practices and ply you with international organic food at the same time.
When I first came upon Monte Testaccio, Testaccio's potsherd hill, Rome's car repairmen had dug out caves in the hill for their repair shops. Today those caves have been transformed into sometimes lavish night clubs and wine bars. It's where Rome's beautiful people go to exercise their dolce vita.
Getting to Testaccio
Testaccio is located south of the Aventine Hill right along the Tiber. It makes a beautiful walk from Trestevere or the Campo dei Fiori on a sunny day, as you can see from the picture, taken in December.
Bus number 170 takes you from Rome's main train station Termini to the Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice in Testaccio. The nearest metro stop on the Metro B line is Pyramide
Join us for a tour of Testaccio, including tips on what to see, where to have coffee and a pastry, where to eat and where to have a night out in this up and coming working class neighborhood.