Peaceful Surroundings, Mountain Views, Great Food and it's Cool
The Agriturismo Spino Fiorito is nestled in the Appenines of the Lunigiana, just west of the Garfagnana in the little village of Reusa. The views all around the property are spectacular, as you might be able to see from the pictures. It is cooler here, especially at night, than in the rest of Tuscany--and much, much cooler in the summer than Rome or Florence. The Spino Fiorito is an excellent place to recover from a hot summer vacation in the flatlands of Tuscany and the Emilia-Romagna.
We had been encouraged to eat at the Spino Fiorito by the Docent of the nearby museum in Cosola, as well as by our neighbor Enrico. Spino Fiorito turned out not to be just a good place to eat, it was a great place to eat. What was set in front of us were traditional dishes carefully prepared with local ingredients and enhanced by modern, innovative touches.
Lunch at the Spino Fiorito
At lunch there is a choice of two primi piatti (first plates, usually pasta), two secondi piatti (second, or main courses), two contorni (vegetable side dishes), dolce (dessert) and coffee. The meal includes wine and water. The waiter might even offer you a digestivo, or after dinner drink. To me, this is the bargain meal of the century at a fixed price of 10 Euros per person, taxes and tip included.
The first time we dined at Spino Fiorito, we enjoyed pasta with trout and cubes of lardo di Colonnata (in a light tomato base with a bit of hot spice), followed by fresh local trout with a salad and some grilled eggplant. When I asked the waiter if the trout was local, he told us the exact stream in the nearby Garfagnana from whence the trout was plucked. If there is ever a way to choose a restaurant that's serious about the food it serves, this is the kind of answer to look for. Oh, and for dessert we eagerly wolfed down the house-made panacotta with chocolate sauce.
Our second pranzo (lunch) at Spino Fiorito was equally satifying. We started with fresh spaghetti with zucchini and anchovies (along with some warm fresh tomatoes, a scattering of basil leaves, and a drizzle--or two--of excellent olive oil). Who makes fresh spaghetti these days? The kitchen of Spino Fiorito does, and does it well.
For a second course, Martha chose rabbit and chicken with olives, and it was spectacular. I had the roast beef, which was, well, roast beef. Nothing wrong with it, but it wasn't our favorite dish. The side dish of eggplant and mushrooms raised the bar quite a bit, however.
Lodging at the Spino Fiorito
The Agriturismo Spino Fiorito has four rooms to rent. Each has a country house feeling to it and a private bath. The room we examined had a deep, claw foot tub that Martha swooned over. Prices in 2007 were quite reasonable: Room and breakfast for 40€ (Check current prices.)
The pool is raised and positioned for a spectacular view of the Apuan Alps. The location is very quiet, and would be ideal for a couple desiring peace and solitude--as well as some of the best cooking in Tuscany.
Spino Fiorito
spinofiorito@e-toscana.com
What to do near the Spino Fiorito
Nearby is Casola, with its fine history and ethnographic museum (next to a ceramics studio for the shoppers among you). The spa town of Equi Terme is a short distance away. For more on nearby Lunigiana attractions see our Lunigiana Travel Directory, or view the pictures in our Lunigiana Picture Galleries. The Garfagnana, another of Tuscany's "hidden" travel destinations, is just to the east--where you can see more spectacular mountain scenery and visit the interesting town of Barga. The Cinque Terre is about 45 minutes away by train from the Aulla Lunigiana station.
