From James Martin,
Your Guide to Europe Travel.
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Like to stay in impersonal boxes with cookie-cutter rooms? Read no further. La Preghiera (the Prayer) may ineed be the answer to the Slow traveler's players. Not just a hotel in the countryside, La Preghiera is like a small village, with a rambling 12th century building, pool, chapel or oratorio, guest house, and gardens. Plus, there's an interesting Toy Soldier Museum.

La Preghiera - The History

When John and Liliana Tunstill first set eyes upon La Preghiera it was a wreck. Set in the middle of a valley, the rest of the valley floor had risen from the eroding hillsides, leaving La Preghiera in a bit of a low spot. Over the years water took a toll. But John had overseen many restorations in Umbia, and he had visions of making this building rise from the depths. La Preghiera stands proudly on higher ground, and there's a levee built all around--just in case.

La Preghiera wasn't a monastery, but a monastic outpost on the pilgrimage route between Gubbio and Cortona. Monks farmed here and supplied pilgrims with food and goods, and were the bankers; the ancient gates for the public can still be seen on the ground floor of the main building. That's the good thing: John hasn't trashed any history in the process of rennovation.

La Preghiera - The main building

La Preghiera is found in the Upper Tiber Valley, near the town of Calzolaro. You drive a short distance down a "white road" to get to it. There's no garish sign, just a shaded car park in front of the main building.

You enter by means of a small footbridge which takes you to the terrace, with its characteristic flat arches (rare, if only because they're difficult to make and don't support a lot of weight).

Inside you'll be introduced to typical Umbrian architecture enhanced with a designer's eye to make it all seem like a cozy rooming house, where everyone knows everyone else. Give it a few days and you probably will know everyone else--the staff will welcome and introduce you like family.

Downstairs in the main building is John's former life behind glass cases. John had a London shop selling toy soldiers, and he's brought quite a bit of it with him to his Umbria digs. There's also vintage post cards and a few random items of interest--like a valuable roll of the toilet paper specially made for Mussolini when he visited (the locals couldn't afford such an extravigance!)

La Preghiera - Notes on the Bedrooms and the Oratorio

Every room in La Preghiera is different. Some, like in the picture, even have bits of tiled roof in them, as the building was modified over the hundreds of years and usage of the space changed.

All rooms have marble-surrounds with fantastic showers with good water pressure.

La Preghiera, sitting in the midst of an agricultural valley, is quiet. Leave your windows open--the silence will be interupted perhaps by the chirp of birds but not by the rasp of Vespas zipping to nowhere.

The Oratorio

A small chapel, or Oratorio, was on the property when John found it, and it needed quick restoration. So this was the first building rennovated.

The size of the estate, the Oratorio, and the beautiful location. What does that make you think of? A wedding perhaps? Yes, John has hired a wedding specialist, who can help you with the paperwork to get hitched in Italy, if you wish. La Preghiera is the perfect spot.

La Preghiera: The Bottom Line

You'll need a car to get to La Preghiera and to enjoy the immense number of attractions in the immediate area. Your hosts will tell you everything that's going on neaby. Umbria has as many compelling hilltowns as Tuscany, but is less touristed.

La Preghiera is luxurious, warm, and inviting at the same time. You can walk around the levee, or sit on benches and contemplate the view--when you're not out discovering Umbria, that is.

Prices? Well, here's where it gets confusing, but interesting. John runs specials for a limited number of people. Be first to reserve a slot and you'll get a cheaper room--much cheaper than the folks who get the last room. It's the magic of the market, or so they say. Check the website for prices and specials.

And stay a week. This place is made for Slow Travel. John and Liliana told me that'd be happy to arrange cooking classes, truffle hunts, and Christmas breaks for you.

For more, see our La Preghiera Photo Gallery.

As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary accommodation for the purpose of review. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. For more information, see our ethics policy.